Tuesday, March 13, 2012

Khuri and Jaisalmer


3/13/12

Yesterday we made the journey westward into the desert to the small desert town of Khuri where, after a short rest I mounted my camel and went for a three hour camel safari including a beautiful sunset. My companions were two young Dutch psychologists, Sahar and Selda, a Moroccan man, Ahmed and his girlfriend  and a couple, Rick and his wife from New Zealand. The camel ride was wonderful. Afterward in a larger group we enjoyed some traditional music  and a dance performance followed by dinner. Then some in the larger group along with me opted to take a camel car ride and sleep in the open desert under the stars. We had the good attention of our camel car driver, who helped us build a fire and choose our sleeping spots.

Jaisalmer is a beautiful “Golden city” so named for the intricate beauty and abundance of the gold jewelry worn by the women of  the city. Jaisalmer was and is a main city on the trade routes for gold and high quality saffron, and textiles, and many other valuables and essentials. The stonemasons and artisans in this city are always hard at work, because with tourism and other business interests elsewhere many in this city pour their wealth into their homes by building upwards and decorating in stonework. Indira Gandhi is credited with recognizing the possibilities for this city, and when after partition and some outbreaks of war Pakistan cut off trade and water supply and other resources, she built a canal from the Himalayas for water supply and actively encouraged tourism, beginning with a government purchase of some business interests in the city leading to tourism.

Today I feel  the chance of being more refreshed, taking it easy, and enjoying the relative peacefulness of this city. I think the only planned activity is to visit a lake and another sunset point – a welcome simplicity in the midst of my busy pilgrimage in Rajasthan. 

 Readying myself for the first movement of my camel standing up:)                 

 All set, my camel's character written all over his face.

 My camel boy, Laso, singing soflty to himself as we walked and toyed with with the camel reins.

My camel was in front so this was the group catching up with us

 In the sand dunes at sunset point
 Camels and camel men resting
 All out of focus but just an impression of the dance

With my overnight companions, Sahar and Selda, around the campfire

Waking up under a desert sky.

 "Satisfy us with your love in the morning, and we will live this day in joy and praise."

Our camelcar man getting the cart ready and making his way over to get the camel who spent the night under a very tasty tree.

The jail of Jaisalmer fort now converted into a school. 100% of Jaisalmer children of all castes now in school, though the overall percentage of educated people in the city still about 20%. The children like to say "we're going to jail" when asked where they are going for the day.

Balconies on the fort wall

Glorious stonework on a Jain temple within the fort. The fort itself is unusual for housing 5,000 of Jaisalmer's population of 75,000.

One businessman's home in the city, outside the fort area. Five entrance arches for five sons living here with their families

Two of the many delightful children I have met, pictured here after receiving a candy from my guide who takes the same route often and they look out for him coming. 
 

2 comments:

  1. I LOVED this post - wow sleeping under desert stars - it doesn't get more lyrical than that. The picture of you on the camel was priceless. I'm so glad you got a day and night to just be a tourist and see this glorious place. Beautiful.

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  2. Yes, Suzanne. When I ran into Sahar and Selda right in the entrance gate to City Palace in Jaipur today (Sunday 3/18) it was a lovely coincidence and we all reflected on how good that time was and how different from visiting monuments palaces, forts, and temples!!

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