In Jodhpur

3/11/12

The Mehrangarh Fort at Jodhpur is an amazing structure with different parts added in each dynasty and period of its history. An impregnable fortress in times of war, it has never been captured by invading forces in all of its history in spite of long sieges and the like. Some pictures below cannot do justice to the beauty and grandeur but they capture a small glimpse. 

Sunday in Sommerville Memorial Church whose foundation stone was laid by Rev. Robert J. Drummond (my great grandfather, on a visit to India) was a wonderful and uplifting experience. I preached in English with the very competent Mr. Anil Ram as translator at my side. The lectionary texts for the day were Psalm 97, Exodus 34: 29-35, 2 Peter 1: 13- 19, and Mark 9: 2-10. As always I really enjoyed linking the texts together as well as referencing the evident fruit of the missionary work and subsequent Indian ministry in Jodhpur as elsewhere.  There are now 15 churches of various denominations in Jodhpur. This congregation is the largest with 350 families and approximately two thousand members - yes in India when counting families you count at least six to a family. As in Udaipur the congregation overflowed into a large seating area outside the main entrance. One highlight of my visit was being invited by one family back to their home to meet their mother, Mrs. E. H. Samuel, now 89, who remembers JWD and HMC very well. Her mind and memory were very vivid. It was specially wonderful to hear her describe Granny’s work with girls and women in the surrounding area of Jodhpur teaching sewing among other handicrafts, as well as her superintending the St Andrews Mission School where Mrs. Samuel also taught alongside Granny. 

 Sections and ramparts of Jodhpur fort build above each other

The Queen's carriage - not so much as her foot was to be visible when she stepped on and off

 Nearer section is coated and polished limestone giving almost a marble effect

A carriage for the king complete with bed inside - requiring six to carry - do you think he wanted to be hidden from view ?

 Grandeur and opulence at its height

Colorful balls on the ceiling mark a deliberate inclusion of a Christmas (read "Christian") theme

Beautiful stained glass makes for a soft and warm effect on the interior

Sommerville Memorial Church foundation stone

Pictured together with congregants and the assistant presbyter in charge Rev. Patrick Joseph

Discussing my relationship to RJD - garlanded at close of worship once again :)

 The family of Mrs E.H. Samuel - a family of teachers

 St. Andrew's Hall - formerly St. Andrew's Mission Primary School where Granny was superintendant

Front entrance to the Hall

A Pause for Thanksgiving and Remembrance

2/9/12 

As It happens the place name I had been given as the new name for Erinpura turned out to the the new name for the railway station originally also with the name of Erinpura. It led to remarkable detour in our search, accompanied by a family group who took great care to show us two unusual graves in the area, neither of which was the right one. They were like all villagers I have met, full of grace and warmth and hospitality. Then we followed a lead to another community which is the more substantial residential and market community which once had the name of Erinpura and now goes by the name of Shivganj. It is exactly on the border between Sirohi and Jodhpur districts were JWD’s article indicates. Facing the marketplace and a pedestrian precinct, Bumpy was asking directions and as is quite normal the enquiry led to a string of several conversations among local townsmen, one of which got in the car with us and accurately led us to the now desolate and brokendown walls of the former army graveyard. My new contact (by phone) in Ajmer was another Rev. Massay who now 76 years old remembers JWD well from his childhood. Rev. Massay gave me precise directions for finding the grave – a limestone grave to the right after entering the cemetery. It turned out that the correct grave was so overgrown and almost invisible that Bumpy, and our guide and I actually checked the inscriptions on all the g raves in the cemetery before finally realizing that there was one in the corner we had missed. I pulled back thornbush after thornbush, crouched, and peered, and with great satisfaction and a loud shout to the others, read the name Thomas Blair Steele. I had prepared myself for the possibility of neglect (which I had imagined I might use my own hands to clear) but not overgrowth to this extent and I saw immediately it was beyond me alone. I asked our guide to find some local help to cut back the thornbushes and to clean the area around the marble plaque. The result was that a whole family set about the task and the pictures convey their good work. When their work was done, and much to their curiosity I sat cross-legged on the ground and prayed aloud, laid flowers on the grave (two garlands – one for JWD and one for Granny Helen Collier (each of whom had entered upon their labours in Rajasthan at almost  exactly the same age as this young minister who died had done) - and took pictures of the family and they of me.  As I bade farewell to the patriarch of the family that had done the work for me, he asked me when I would return. I answered as I often do, “it could be many years from now,” to which he replied that he would never forget the day for the rest of his life. At that, as I began to say what the visit meant to me, I broke down in tears. It has happened frequently on this journey of thousands of miles, most often in the quietest of rural settings in the simplicity and silent solemnity of sacred spaces. It was as much as I could do to mouth my thank yous, bow to the father and mother with my hands tight together in the traditional greeting of peace, as I turned and made my way to the car.

Once again my visit has stirred the awareness of missionary history. As I relayed my experience by phone to the a young pastor in Ajmer, Rev. Sunny Kumar, he expressed his deep gratitude to be so much clearer on the exact location of this grave and his desire to make it a project to attend to its care.   

As I write I am settling in to my hotel in Jodhpur, still without reliable internet connection, but happy to be preparing this blog for upload sometime this weekend. Now to consider Sunday’s with more attention. This Sunday promises to be another weighty day for me, preaching in Somerville Memorial Church, a church that I know JWD preached in many a Sunday and for whose life and well-being he prayed and ministered faithfully. 

Holi in Ranakpur

3/8/12

Today began with my usual readings and prayers followed by favorite breakfast of aloe paratha with pickle on the side, curds and black chai. Then all semblance of the ordinary vanished. I put on my sparkling white Holi outfit and plunged deep into the Holi festival, as you will witness from my pictures. It was great fun, with lots of laughter, singing and dancing. It was as much fun to throw and spread the powdered paint on other people in great playfulness as it was to receive paint or a shower of water that spread the paint everywhere.

It is so interesting to notice my dependence on, or desire for, internet connection and what it feels like to be without it even for a couple of days. So I am writing today and will post this blog  sometime in the next few days.

Tomorrow brings another significant moment in my pilgrimage through Rajasthan. Not many, if any, other visitors will make the journey I am choosing to make. Jawai Bund is the current name for the place in Scottish missionary history called Erinpura. This is the place where, travelling from Bombay, by bullock-cart the first Scottish missionaries Revs. Thomas Blair Steele and Dr. Schoolbred arrived, with Thomas Steele so ill that he died and was buried at Erinpura. JWD tells the story in an article I have come to treasure. The tombstone that I will be looking for reads:

Erected

by the

United Presbyterian Church of Scotland

In memory of

The Rev. THOMAS BLAIR STEELE

one of its first missionaries to Rajpootana:

who before entering on his labours died at Erinpoorah on the

19^th February 1860

Aged 24 years

Asleep in Jesus.

The other missionary Dr. Shoolbred went on to Beawar and founded the mission there and the Beawar church is named for him to this day. However the first piece of land purchased by the Scottish church in Rajasthan was a grave. I will be searching for the grave tomorrow. Today there is no church in Erinpura as there was in JWD’s day. In JWD’s time the congregation there even hosted an all-Rajasthan Church convention. I don’t know what to expect, whether I will be able to find it, where it will be well tended or overgrown, whether I will be able to pause there to pray and to remember and to lay flowers.   

 Evening over Lake at Ranakpur

 Sunset at Ranakpur

The approach of a herd of goats

10:30 a.m. on the morning of Holi

 The party continues

Udaipur to Ranakpur

3/7/12

Leaving Udaipur this morning the preparations for the Holi celebration were well underway. The City Palace grounds were being prepared for the king and the royal family to enjoy and celebrate with guests who would pay a handsome price to witness the pageantry and the speeches, cocktails and a fine dinner. Meanwhile on the streets huge stacks of hay were gradually accumulating along with large and small tree branches, and smaller sticks with orange color markings. All these are in readiness for the forming of a big bonfire. A few townspeople returning from work had clearly begun Holi in their workplaces with the throwing of paint at each other. As we drove out of Udaipur we met a camel coming from who knows how far away heavily laden with hay carefully balanced on its back – the herder walking alongside.

As we arrived in Ranakpur I visited the two Jain temples, though at one I was prevented from approaching too closely being told in no uncertain terms “only Indian people beyond this point.” I went on to have lunch and then to visit the local weavers of cotton carpet. The owner gestured towards an ornate old bullcart and said “that’s our Ferrari.” I was tickled because it gave me a photo to put alongside the story of the missionary journey through Erinpura. As I explained my interest in his bullcart, Bumpy was able to get precise directions for that next stop on my pilgrimage. At some point this evening I will don my oldest clothes to be ready fo the paint throwing and then tomorrow I will don my Indian style Holi attire, purchased in Udaipur,, for the main festival.     

 A small procession in Udaipur on the Eve of Holi

 Jain Temple in Ranakpur

 The "Ferrari" of a Ranakpur weaver

Pictures from Sunday and Monday

 Inside Shepherd Memorial Church,Udaipur

The pastors who have served here, includiing Rev. Dr. James Runciman and Rev. John Stirling 

 With the group of medical students from NE India who attended the English service and sang

 Baptism certificate of Rev. A.V.M. Massey, (pictured above) retired pastor of Shepherd Memorial Church who was baptized by JWD in 1937. I was baptized by JWD in 1959.

View from my hotel room balcony - delightful, especially in the evening

City Palace from rooftop restaurant

Lake Palace Hotel - I plan to have lunch there Tuesday

Inside Lady Garden

 View of Shepherd Memorial Church, Udaipur

 Inside Lady Garden

 Having tea on the road to the tribal area of Bhagpura

The ministry team at Bhagpura numbering 50 families (count six to a family). Rev. Anil Meena Assistant Pastor (far left) in charge of Bhagpura. Rev. E.D. Singh (in clerical collar) visiting pastor. Bhagpura and several other triabal parishes are under the overall charge of Rev. Emmanual Damor at Shepherd Memorial Church. 

With the ministry team outside the church after being presented with a turban fit for a Rajasthani king

The presentation inside the sanctuary after a short worship service

Bundi, Kota, and Piploda

3/4/12

In Bundi I met the pastor who has a developing ministry with a new congregation that so far meets in the homes of the members while hoping and praying to have a church building. The churches call these meetings in homes “Cottage Prayer” or “Cottage Services.” Especially in the season of Lent all over the Diocese there are cottage prayer meetings every day of the week led by lay leaders. In Bundi I had a wonderful guided tour of the Fort and Palace. The magnificent paintings, some of which have been preserved were a delight to behold. 

Then yesterday in Kota I met the pastor, Rev. Naharmal Barnabas, his Associate Pastor Rev. Reena Massey, and lay leadership of a big and thriving congregation that had accomplished two major building projects in the last decade – an extension of the length of the sanctuary at the chancel end and later an addition of a bell tower at the main entrance. Both projects funded by the giving of the congregation. I was greeted and honored with multiple garlands of flowers and a tour of the church. Then it was on to Piploda and small entirely Christian village that has been blessed with good farmland being originally established by the missionaries close to five rivers. The name of the Congregation is Jangal Mangal Mandi which translates to Light in the Forest or Happiness in the Forest (this is in the green part of Rajasthan). The Pastor Rev. Akhlendra Singh together with church leaders and many villagers met me again with garlands of flowers but also with a procession led by a wonderful drummer playing a drum specific to such welcoming processions. The procession stopped while I was taken into their recently built church hall and then again as we stopped to view the Church, and once again to view the now somewhat derelict mission bungalow of which they are very proud even in its dilapidated state, then back in procession to the church hall where I was treated to a wonderful lunch in my honor. I  was remembering later in the day that one of  JWD's nicknames for Aunt Rhoda was Rhoda Piploda. Then we made our way back the 100 km to Kota where I met the family of my guide Mr. Anil Paul, who as well as serving as the Diocesan representative on the Synod Council and the Diocesan Executive Committee was the organizing secretary for major anniversary celebrations in Piploda and in Kota in recent years. Then my driver and I went on to spend the night in Udaipur, getting up early to attend the Hindi service at Shepherd Memorial Church. I was presented with a beautiful marble plaque depicting the church and invited to bring greetings. Later in the service during communion I helped to distribute the bread. There must have been upwards of 400 people in the congregation. The church was packed and about a hundred were seated outside the church building. This congregation also had plans for building an extension. It is wonderful to see the impact of the faithful ministry and outreach in this congregation and in Kota. At the time of the service this morning I was invited to preach this evening and upon my request was given the lectionary texts for tonight’s service. So after lunch I have been preparing for tonight’s sermon and actually relishing the prospect. Today West End Church completes its retreat experience at Mount Manresa in Staten Island with worship at West End and with Rev. Krystin Granberg preaching. My thoughts have been with them all during this weekend. 

 Bundi Fort, Palace and Lake. My hotel in yellow on the lakeside

 Main Entrance - Elephant Gate - of the Palace

 Depiction of Elephant fight. First they parched them of thirst then gave them alcohol to drink and they the elephants fought - so cruel a sport !

 Sun worship with angels attending the sun god - on ceiling of elephant gate

 Kota Church after recent addition of bell tower

Inside Kota Church showing the new length of the sanctuary

 With Pastor and brothers Anil Paul and Soondeep Paul outside Kota Church

 In the midst of the crowd of well-wishers and welcome party at Piploda

On procession in the streets of Piploda

With Pastor and leaders of the congregation of Piploda Church

With some of the women leaders of Piploda Church

  At home with the extended family of Anil Paul

Church visits in Ajmer

3/1/12

This afternoon was the chance to explore Ajmer and in particular to visit the Robson Memorial Church where JWD would have preached regularly. There was no particular list of past ministers to consult, but the Presbytery in Charge was kind enough to dig out the old baptismal registers and the old marriage registers for the relevant years, and sure enough we found the evidence. See accompanying pictures. I hope you can zoom in on them. Later we visited St Mary's Church which is also of course now CNI but in JWD's time it was Episcopal and in one of his letters to his father RJD he tells the tale of his colleague and friend Rev. John Stirling being invited to preach in St Marys and how he drove Mrs Stirling and I think one other person to be there to hear John and be a good support on the occasion. Later in the afternoon we visited the home of my constant guide while in Ajmer, Paul Theodore. His famiily home was his grandfather's home to begin with and has been expanded in stages to accommodate he and his three brothers and their families - a real ancestral home with the full living together of siblings and their families. Later we visited and had tea with a good friend of all missionaries to Rajasthan, in particular a friend to Agnes Smith and her late husband Ewing Smith and their children, Peter David. His aunt Ruby I missed because she is currently staying with her daughter in Delhi. Here are a few pictures. 

  Bishop Warris Masih with the team of church leaders at Robson Memorial Church

 One page of the Marriage Register

 One page from the Baptismal Register

Outside of Robson Memorial Church

 Symbol at top of window represented the Church of Scotland

The Presbyter and Assitant Presbyter of Robson Memorial Church (names to confirm later)

At the foundation stone of St Mary's Church beneath the altar on the outside of the building. The 127 represents the fact that the property was originally a railway property and this was the lot number

Inside St Mary's Church, Ajmer

Paul with his wife, son-in-law, granddaughter and Bishop Warris

Peter David outside his home which doubles as his music studio where he directs a music academy